Hyderabad Traditional Jewellery

HYDERABAD TRADITONAL JEWELLERY

v               SARPENCH, KALGI AND SARPATTI

These were the few pieces of Jewellery made exclusive for men; beautifully crafted turban ornaments studded with precious stones. The Kalgi is distinguished by a feather, the Sarpench by the paisley shaped ornamentation. By the paisley shaped ornamentation. The Sarpatti (or mathapatti) is usually made of precious stones and pearls, and is worn around the turban by men and incorporates a tika in the centre for women.

v               TURRA

Also a turban ornament-m it is usually an enameled of gem-set central flower piece with strands of pearls streaming from it. Tucked into the turban, the emerald and pearl tassels would hang to the side of the forehead.

v               KARANPHOOL

Is an intricate flower shaped ornaments accompanied by a Jhumka, won over the ear. It’s very heavy on the ear and so is supported by mattis of sahare – gold or pearl strings – that are fastened to the hair of headpiece.

v               CHANND BALLIS

Beautifully crafted gold hoops with crescent shaped filigree (at the bottom of the hoop) embellished by precious stones and usually have tiny pearls dangling from them. They are now being worn by discerning women even with casual wear. They so chic!

v               KAAN CHOKRAY

A simple solitaire stud that used to be and still is worn by both men and women. It was must as a part of every Jewellery box in Hyderabad at one time. Because of its stark simplicity – it’s coming back again.

v               JARWI LACHAHA

This precious stone-studded choker is a must of brides and is usually made from kundan-set uncut diamonds, rubies, with pearls and emeralds drops.

v               CHINTAK AKA GULUBAND

The word literally means ‘enclosing the neck’. A choker style necklace with pull strings, usually set with a square central piece – both a kundan-set uncut diamond and intricately worked enamel on the reverse- fringed with pearls and a row of pearl and emerald drops. Beautifully crafted, most traditional families have one in their vaults.

v               SATLADA

A family heirloom, the satlada literally means seven strings with seven tukdas – kundan – set triangular gold pieces- strung in each of the pearls strings.

v               JUGNI MARVAREED

Is a paisley of pear shaped pendant with a big uncut diamond or emerald surrounded by emeralds and uncut diamonds hung of basra pearl strings. Designed to showcase floral patterns in filigree, the pendants have intricate enamel work on the reverse.

v               MURASSA HAAR

The necklace is set in lotus flower setting with big tikda of uncut diamonds strung unusually in three strings of pearls with a large cluster pendant with emerald drops. The gems were kundan-set and represent a fusion of Moghul and Deccan styles.

v               HASLI

Is a rigid collar in gold that incorporated trellis and floral designs set with uncut diamonds with a row of emerald drops.

v               BAZUBAND

A pair of arm bands, bazubands usually has a large central piece of precious stones, set in a geometric pattern linked to the two smaller pearl or curved shaped sections with string looped to tie around the arm.

v               ZANJEER ALMAS

A simply designed but striking double sided gold chain has two rows of flat, pear shaped, uncut diamonds in gold, linked together with tiny gold loops and the sides decorated with red enamel.

v               PANCH LAADI

Not so common, but still a classic, the Panch Laadi incorporate five rows of pearls interspersed with emerald beads and hexagonal ruby and pearl spacers.

v               DASTABND MURASSA

A pair of bracelets made of several hinged kundan-set precious stones or enamel work strung with pearls ending in a loop or latch clasp. Some of the Nizami women had a pair of these in every colour.

v               PAUNCHI

Also bracelets but designed around string rather than hings – they come in a variety of styles with precious stones and enamels highlights or uncut diamonds in thick gold and silver kundan-setting. These were also a must for must trousseaus.

v               KANGANI OR KARAI

Bangles set with precious stones and enameled on the inside. Was considered regular of daily wear ornamentation of the noble families.

v               ANGOTHI

While the Aarsi is a huge ring that was worn on the thumb, the Angothi was unisex and incorporated every single design features of the era, the filigree, the floral motif, the inlay and enamel work. The Challa was slim ring, often inset with precious stones, but was worn to keep the other rings in place.

v               PAIZEB

Beautifully crafted inch-high ankles, designed as graduating panels that are hinged along gold links and fastened with interlocking sides held together by a rod. Inlaid with precious stones , enamel and pearls, the paizeb were marvels of design and ingenuity.

v               TIRMANI

The name indicates that the ornament has three jewels – diamonds, rubies or emeralds, and pearls. The long necklace, usually multi-stands of pearls or glass beads, ends in a rectangular pendent studded with precious stones and filigtree work and emerald drops.

By Jyoti Ranjan Raula

Mob- 9390465183

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